Sunday, September 3rd – 11 am – 5pm
LABOR DAY – Monday, September 4th – 10 am – 4 pm
Tuesday, September 5th – 10 am – 7 pm
Have a happy and safe Labor Day!
Foliar sprays are commonly avoided because of the fear of mold and/or burning leaves or flowers. However, when used as directed, they are some of the best additives you can add to your plant’s health.
Foliar feeding has proven to stimulate growth faster than any other liquid or granular fertilizer. The reason for this is because you are concentrating on the part of the plant that is working hardest to produce food for itself. While it is widely known that the roots take up the highest amount of nutrients, those nutrients are always directed up to the leaves and for storage and flower production. Therefore, by feeding the leaves and flowers directly, you can skip steps to see immediate results.
It is, unfortunately, not well known that most plants can take up as much nutrients through their leaves as they can through their roots. Additionally, foliar feeding the right products will help stimulate stomata growth, CO2 intake, and chlorophyll production. This gives the plant a better ability to produce, store, and utilize nutrients for flower production and size.
Also unfamiliar to most growers is that most additive products can be used as foliar sprays, when used with a wetting agent product. Wetting agents are designed to help break the surface tension of both the leaf surface as well as the liquid you are adding to it. They also will assist in adhesion of the foliar to the leaf and flower surfaces. That means you can build your own foliar feed to see the results you are looking for in your garden. Just make sure to spray your foliars when the lights are off. Very few products will be ok to spray with the lights on, as just like water droplets, they can magnify the lighting you are using and may cause burn spots.
So come on in, we’ll get you dialed in with the right products that will feed your garden to its max potential. Remember… We Grow better!
Today we are going to discuss oil and resin enhancers. The reason to add these enhancers to your regimen is to make sure the flowers of the plant are full of flavor, aroma and oils. There are 3 main ways to create this; adding a liquid supplement, environment, and with UV lighting.
Liquid enhancers have various natural supplements that trigger a reaction within the plant to its most basic level. It’s natural response is to produce additional resins to coat the plant. This leads to better flavor and aroma for your end products.
An additional way to make the plants create more oils and resins is with temperature. The recommended method for doing this is to slowly lower your temps at the end of your bloom cycle to mid to low 60’s with the lights on and off. You don’t want to deviate much from that due to the fact that you don’t want to risk damaging the plants. This method will make the plant start producing oil and resins due to the fact that you are tricking it into thinking that the season has changed and it is time for harvest.
Lastly we will discuss lighting. Ever notice how metal halide bulbs come in different levels of Kelvin? That is because they are each designed for different times of growth. A 10K metal halide bulb used in the last 2 weeks of flower, in place of an HPS bulb, will provide a specific concentrate of UVB light that is not visible to the human eye. This specific UVB spectrum causes the plant to react by trying to protect itself and creates oils and resins to cover itself with a protective layer.
These are the three main ways to produce more oil and resins for your crops, so come on in, and we can get you squared away with one or more of these useful methods. Remember… We Grow Better!
Today we are going to talk about the importance of flushing out your media before you harvest your plants. This information is only good for plants that bear fruit once and die. The reason it’s a good idea to flush before harvest is due to all the nutrients you’ve been feeding your plants up until now. Most mineral based nutrients are derived from salt and salts will remain long after water evaporates. If you are using organic nutrients you should still flush to get whatever residuals are present in your medium. So, even though you are feeding them at the recommended dosages, at the end of your flowering phase there will be plenty of salts and other residues in your medium.
Flushing is done for different periods depending on the media you are using to grow in. Soil and soil type (coco based) need longer flush times as they tend to hold nutrients longer than more traditional hydroponic medias. Obviously every garden is different, but, as a general rule of thumb we will go by the following guidelines.
Soil in pots, coco or peet moss based media need 7-14 days. Soil outdoors in the ground needs a minimum of 2 weeks. Rockwool needs 3-7 days. Expanded clay (hydroton) or methods such as deep water culture and aeroponic systems need 3 days.
The recommended method of flushing is simply that. Flush your soil, soil based media, or rockwool with clean water or with one of the flushing additives we carry. Make sure to have at least 25% if not 50% or more of the water you are putting in as runoff. Additionally, do this in stages. Meaning, use about a third of the flush water, wait a few minutes and use the rest. The reason for this is to help dissolve the salts. By putting about a third of the water in first and allowing it to soak, it will have a much better chance to dissolve the salt buildup. Therefore, when you use the rest of the water it will make it easier to get rid of the unwanted nutrients and allow the plants to use the stored energy reserves they have been producing the entire run.
So come on in and we’ll be happy to walk you through the process. Remember… We Grow better!
When discussing plants that flower and fruit, the focus is always on the bloom cycle of the plant. Why is the balance so skewed towards blooming over vegetative? The answer is very simple; feeding your plants the right amount of macro and micro nutrients at the right time in the right amounts equates to a much higher crop count as well more thorough production. Think about it this way. If you are going to run a marathon, you can’t just enter with no preparation. You need to exercise daily and, just as important, feed your body with the right diet and water to make sure you are building muscles and burning fat in accordance to your training. It’s the same for our plants. If you give them the right balance of nutrients at the right time your crop will have a head start on creating the garden you imagined it would be. Today we are going to break these bloom enhancers into three parts: Bloom Starters, Mid-Bloom Enhancers, and Finisher/Ripeners.
As is fairly common knowledge, plants will automatically go into their flowering mode when they start getting 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness every day. Outdoors, there really isn’t much you can do about the amount of daylight there is, but indoor growers have control over lighting hours.
But is there anything else you can do to speed this process up, other than flipping your light schedule? Yes there is. Bloom starters. These unique products have high doses of phosphates and potassium (P&K) to give your plants the exact amount of macro nutrients they need to make the switch. Not only will a bloom starter speed up the transition from vegetative to flower but they also help the plant create more flower sites. As we all know, more flower sites equates to higher yields simply by having more places the plant is utilizing its growing capability.
After using a good bloom starter it is key to switch to a mid-bloom enhancer. Much like the bloom starters they will also help your plant keep producing flower sites, as well as help pack weight on your newly created flower sites and allow the plant to produce much bigger fruit at each flower site. Since you created more flower sites than normal using the bloom starter, and even more with the mid-bloom enhancer, the plant will be able to put out more production utilizing the additional flower sites.
The last phase is the finisher and ripener. These are used to increase oil and resin production in the last few weeks of flowering, as well as making your product much more dense. Basically, you are telling the plant that it’s fruit needs to ripen because it has produced all it can and it’s time to finish it off.
With the right bloom developers we are sure you will see a big difference in your finished products, so come on in and we’ll help you understand what products would work best with your program. Remember… We Grow better!